The FI version has a blind hole near intake 3 for the temp sensor II. If you use this head as part of your engine project you don’t have to worry about the hole because it’s blind. If you have the head from the 74 bus, then you’ll notice two holes on either side of the intakes. These are not breather openings to vent pressure from behind the valve cover. They are air injection holes to allow oxygen to be introduced into the exhaust stream to help burn unburned mixture after burning. Two tubes were hooked up to those ports which lead to an air pump that way driven off the pulley. Removing the air pump is a good ideal because it’s overly complicated and not very effective. Some people rebuild their engine using these heads and have no idea why there is soot in the engine compartment or why it’s so noisy. The holes have to be plugged up after the pump is removed.
Checking the dwell angle
The bike still runs on one cylinder but with a lot less power and will be very hard to start if you stall it. The tach MAY go to zero when this happens. Typically this lasts about 2 – 15 seconds and then may cut back in and run normally.
AUSTIN HEALEY BJ8 SMITHS ELECTRONIC TACHOMETER INSTRUCTIONS FOR REBUILDING THE ELECTRONICS Overview This paper details how I rebuilt the electronics of my Smiths tach.
Posts 10, These two wire types without an internal battery depended on stealing some current from a battery operated ignition coil to charge an internal capacitor to drive the tach circuit. Won’t work on a magneto type system. Also seem to have a small engine tester left over from the 60’s that does required a couple of sized C batteries for operation. But now use a photocell detector with a piece of aluminum tape mounted on the flywheel. Ha, have to keep up with the times.
Looking though my junk piles I wonder why I am still keeping, have plenty of inductive pickups and meters and could design something that would work. But would require a lot more turns on that ceramic core to get a reasonable signal off a magneto. Still have it from , still runs, but sucks gas like crazy, and need two cycle air cooled engine oil to run it for three bucks for a tiny can.
So a two gallon gas can runs about 12 bucks to run it for a short period of time. Was talking to my brother-in-law about this recently, said they were crap, would kill the engine if you hit a weed when cutting the grass. Told him I played with the governor to increase the speed from 3, to close to 4, rpm, so won’t kill the engine in this situation.
But still run broke running it. Ha, still have a Mac gas chain saw from back then, same thing, if the noise doesn’t kill you, the fumes will. Living in a smaller wooded area have three electrics with a foot extension cord.
This is sometimes caused by low battery voltage. Delete the codes, and disconnect the DME for 15 minutes. Then reconnect, let the car idle for five minutes, and then drive over 30 mph for more than five minutes. Recheck the codes – if it occurs again, the DME is faulty and should be replaced.
KAISER SUPERSONIC VS THE WILLYS L? wrote: I originally wrote a message for information abour the possible differences between the Kaiser Supersonic and the Willys.
The following instructions are for creating a MegaSquirt to Relay Board cable. It is for those who are creating their own harness. With both boxes mounted, measure the distance between them from DB connector to DB connector – this will be the length that you will cut the individual wires. If you are not using a Relay Board, allow enough length in each of your wires to reach the target component.
It is often better to be too long and trim afterwards, than to be too short and have to splice additional lengths on. For a Relay Board cable, you can move both heat shrink pieces to the center of the wire length, and then twisting the center of the wire with a few twists to hold the heat shrink in place, so that it does not fall off the wire or run down while soldering the connection.
For a pigtail, you can slip the heat shrink tubing on later. Orient them so that both are facing the same way, with pins 1 – 19 closest to you. You will definitely want something to hold the connector, since as you attach more wires it wants to move around more, while at the same time you have less room to solder. Having it held stable helps a lot. Run one wire from pin 7 to pin 7 there are numbers on the plastic surrounding the connector’s pins and solder both ends.
MerCruiser GM4 Service Manual
They frequently suffer acerbic reviews by those who don’t quite understand them, and they are often removed and replaced by “progressive” centermount carburetors that lack the engineering of the originals that provide dependable service and excellent driveability once you set them up correctly. Here is what is going on with that weird left carburetor, and this will make it all crystal clear to you.
Since the beginning, VW controlled idle speed by a screw that positioned the throttle plate opening. Not much air is required to idle a VW, and they had to dump a lot of gas into the mixture to make sure a combustible mix made it all the way to the cylinders. It worked well, but it was pretty smoggy. These were the Pict 2 days where the idle speed screw was staring right at you at the top of the throttle lever.
Warning for E-Bay buyers!! Please see the Official Suppliers list before buying through E-Bay. This is there for your protection.
My symptoms are no power to speak of below rpm. At that point turbo boost occurs and power comes up, though no where near what it should be. The engine revs smoothly but runs out of steam before rpm. I’m left to decide if the problem is the AMM or the O2 sensor. If your B FT throws oil around like mine, the throttle body can easily get crudded up and cause problems exactly as you described.
All these were fine, just a dirty throttle body caused the problem. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the little locking tab on the end of the lower ball-and-socket. One right-hand thread, the other left-hand. The gasket on my car lifted right off with no fuss, but if you have to scrape be sure to use a plastic or wood scraper so as not to damage the aluminum facing.
Swab it out with clean rags and lots of good quality carb cleaner.
97 chevy 5.7 cam crank relearn
Email with questions on your particular needs as we have many other parts and services available. If we don’t have it we can usually get it or make it. If you need to call, try mornings 9: Leave a message if there is no answer as we may be in the shop and cannot get to the phone, or try cell if necessary, but if you have to leave a message, leave it at the main number. There are often periods of 3 – 5 days, especially during the summer, when we are gone due to racing and other commitments.
Calls and emails are replied to when we return.
When replacing the distributor on the Chevy Vortec enginen, the instruction that came with the Distributor said that a code P would be set, and that a Cam Crank relearn must be performed. Using a bidirectional scan tool. To set the retard with the scan tool, the section you do that in is under EGR EVAP ACC. But Cam Crank Relearn is not in this section.
Opening angle Points opening as the lobe of the cam starts to lift the contact-breaker heel. The dwell angle varies according to the make of car; check it in a service manual. There are two scales on the meter, one for four-cylinder engines and one for six-cylinder engines. Eight-cylinder vehicles are taken from the four-cylinder scale and halved. Connecting the meter Follow the maker’s instructions. Normally one lead is connected to the side terminal of the distributor if it is outside the distributor body, or the CB contact-breaker terminal on the coil , and the other to earth.
Most modern cars have negative earth: On a vehicle with positive earth, connect the red positive lead of the meter to earth and the black negative lead to the distributor or coil. Measuring the dwell angle If you have just fitted new contact-breaker points, set them to approximately the right gap with a feeler gauge. With the dwell meter connected, start the engine and let it settle to a smooth tickover.
If it will not tick over steadily, check the cause s and rectify any faults. The meter reading should stay steady at a steady engine speed. If it does not, increase the idling speed slightly until it does See Preparing for carburettor adjustment.
Checking the dwell angle
Report TheNamesDalton answered 3 years ago Im sure the original user that posted this question has their problem fixed by now but I felt it would be a good idea to share some knowledge I have from these processes for anyone that finds this from search. This is not me telling you that “this is the way it needs to be done” or “my way is better! This is what you will need Most Vortec engines have this from the factory and the TDC engine mark is usually on the timing chain cover Procedure Pointed to 1 when 1 is at TDC on the firing stroke Dont worry about being dead on but it does need to be within 1 tooth out of phase 2 – Start your engine and observe the timing the computer is commanding.
Certain questions come up all the time on the various discussion boards, particularly theSamba’s popular Baywindow is a FAQ made up from my replies to those topics and from some others in no particular order to get new owners up to speed.
It’s got red and black alligator clips. It also has this other wire that ends with a red and black connected to this small bar with a twist knob screw on one end. There’s your problem, black gos to body or engine ground. Red goes to the negative terminal on the coil. Same way you hook up an aftermarket tach. However the tach seems to read higher but I’m not sure if I need to divide by 8 for my or how this works. No, the 8cyl readings will be accurate. Some of the old meters you had to double the readings for the 4 cyls.
Case Tractors Discussion Forum Archived Messages
Check the serial cable and serial circuit. You need to ensure that you cable is straight-through and not a null modem cable, as well as that it doesn’t have other functional problems. For the V3 main board, the instructions are in step 26 g-h. However it does not necessarily verify that the com port speed setting baud rate is correct.
If you do not pass this test, you may have a faulty solder joint in the com circuits, you need to inspect every solder joint very carefully, and touch up any that don’t look perfect. If everything is good on the solder joints, you have not missed installing any components, and nothing is shorted or bridged, then one or more of the serial circuit components is likely damaged such as the MAX
9) Work in a well-lighted area – this is hard enough to do correctly even when you CAN see what you are doing. 10) Crimped vs. soldered connections – with a decent .
How to Hook Up a Tach Dwell Meter by Robert Bayly A tach-dwell meter is a combination electronic device that measures engine rpm as a tachometer and ignition point dwell angle. The tachometer function is self-explanatory; it measures engine speed in revolutions per minute. The dwell function measures the degrees of distributor rotation that ignition points are closed and is directly related to ignition point gap.
In fact, the ignition point gap can be set by adjusting the dwell angle. Attach the red lead on your meter to the negative “-” terminal on the ignition coil. Attach the black lead on your meter to any good ground on the engine; that is, an unpainted metal part. Set the meter for the number of cylinders your engine has. There should be a switch with engine settings on it. Set the meter for “tach” or “dwell. When using the meter, switch back and forth between tach and dwell.